In the northwest of Namibia lies the country’s flagship national park – and its most popular tourist attraction: Etosha. No wonder, considering this park is quite unique, even in Africa. Besides its spectacular wildlife, Etosha National Park is home to a salt flat so large it can be seen from space. Another advantage of this national park is that it is one of the most accessible parks in Namibia and southern Africa.
The story of Etosha National Park
Established in 1907, the park takes its name from the Ovambo tribe’s word “etosha”, meaning “a place where plants do not grow”, a reference to the mighty Etosha Pan (salt pan). What was once a lake has long since dried up and the salt pan today makes up 23 percent of Etosha’s area. Etosha Pan and the area that would later become Etosha National Park were discovered by Europeans in 1851. The two explorers Charles Andersson and Francis Galton came to the area together with members of the Ovambo tribe. The national park was established in 1907 and the name comes from Bantu, the language of the Ovambo tribe. The word “etosha” means “a place where plants do not grow”, referring to the mighty Etosha Pan. What was once a lake has long since dried up. Today, the salt pan makes up 25 percent of the park’s total area (22,000 square kilometers). In the late 1970s and early 1980s, much of the wildlife in Etosha was extinct. The cause was a combination of severe drought and the Namibian War of Independence (1966-1968). Thanks to enormous conservation efforts, a number of animal species were reintroduced and the number of animals and animal species increased considerably in the years that followed. Today, Etosha National Park is once again one of the best places in the world to see Africa’s spectacular wildlife.
Best time to visit Etosha National Park
Etosha has two seasons: The wet period (November to May) and the dry period (June to October). During the wet season, the landscape is green and lush, the vegetation is thick and the roads are often muddy. The animals are scattered across the vast plains and often disappear into the bushy scrub. Some roads are closed and driving can be a challenge. The dry season forces the animals to congregate around the waterholes – which makes for great wildlife viewing. September and October are considered the best months to go on safari in Etosha National Park, especially if you’re driving yourself. Be aware that traveling in high season (the most popular months) can present challenges. There are often many cars around the waterholes and the accommodations are full. If you’re traveling during this period, it’s advisable to book your trip at least nine months in advance. In high season, prices are also much higher, often by 20-40 percent.
How to get to Etosha National Park
Etosha National Park is located around four hours by car north of Windhoek, the capital of Namibia. Most airlines fly to Windhoek. The drive is easy as the standard of the road is quite good. It is recommended to rent 4×4 wheeled vehicles. There are four entrance gates to Etosha National Park:
Andersson Gate in the south
Galton Gate in the west
Nehale Gate in the north
Namutoni Gate in the east Etosha National Park opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. You will need to pay a park fee as well as a fee for the car (if you drive yourself). Accommodation is additional.
Wildlife in Etosha National Park
The main reason visitors come to Etosha National Park is, of course, the impressive wildlife, but also the unique landscape. The national park is home to 114 species of mammals, including four of the big five (elephant, rhino, lion and leopard). The park is home to both black and white rhinoceros as well as a variety of felines such as cheetahs, hyenas, servals, jackals and earwigs. Antelopes galore dance around the plains and visitors can enjoy the sight of zebras, eland, oryx and impala. Bird watching is also a popular activity, with more than 340 bird species frolicking in the park. During the rainy season (November to April), the Etosha Pan and Fisher’s Pan areas fill up with water, attracting large flocks of pelicans and flamingos.
Lions are usually scattered throughout Etosha and you can see them early in the morning. The rest of the day they are mostly hidden in the shade of a tree.
The best places to see lions are Groot Okevi, Rietfontein, Okondeka or along the road past Ozonjuitji m’Bari and between Sonderkop and Dolomite Camp. The leopard is very shy and the most difficult of the big five to see. In Etosha you can see them around Halali and Goas. The cheetah, the sprinter of the savannah, thrives best in open landscapes. In Etosha, they are found around Charitsaub, Gemsbokvlakte, Leeubron and on the road to Twee Palms. Black rhino, the armored animal on everyone’s wish list, are best seen at waterholes in the evening/night. The three lighted waterholes at Okaukuejo, Halali and Namutoni camps provide great opportunities. The best is Okaukuejo where a variety of animals congregate.
Best time of day for safaris
In the vast majority of national parks, early morning is the best time to go on safari. Temperatures are lower and lions and leopards (which hunt at night) can often be seen feeding on their prey. Etosha is no exception, so arrive at the park at sunrise. Afternoon/early evening is also a good time to go on safari. The animals come out of the shade and graze in the open landscape or quench their thirst. Early evening is a very good time to look for rhinos at the waterholes. During the dry season (June to October), Etosha National Park offers fantastic wildlife experiences – even in the middle of the day when it’s hot. This is quite unusual, but is due to the many waterholes around the park. Large herds of zebra, springbok, impala and oryx, in the company of ostriches, giraffes and elephants, cool off and quench their thirst. All you have to do is drive to a waterhole, wait for the animal parade to arrive and enjoy the sight. Etosha National Park sets itself apart from other national parks by being an all-day safari park, especially during the dry season. A number of the waterholes are illuminated so the safari doesn’t have to be over when the sun goes down.
The best places to see animals in Etosha National Park
Etosha National Park is large and the animals roam freely. There is never a guarantee of which animals or how many animals you will see when you are on safari. The best chance of seeing animals is at the waterholes. In the middle of the day, these waterholes are excellent spots: Ozonjuitji m’Bari, Okaukuejo, Chudob, Groot Okevi, Ombika, Gemsbokvlakte, Charitsaub, Rietfontein and Sonderkop. Herds of antelopes, giraffes, rhinos and elephants often come here.
Safari in Etosha National Park
There are two ways to go on safari in Etosha National Park. You can either drive yourself or join a guided safari tour. The most popular is to drive yourself and explore the national park at your own pace. The advantage is that you can choose the roads you want, stop as long as you like and give a sense of adventure. The park’s three main camps Okaukuejo, Halali and Namutoni are great places to stop for a break, eat and refuel.
You can also join a guided safari tour. These are offered by the park’s accommodations and take place in the morning, afternoon or night. The advantage of a guided safari tour is that if you’ve hired a regular car to get to Etosha, you can experience the safari from a 4×4 game drive (you sit higher and have better views). Professional and knowledgeable guides help you find the animals and they often communicate with each other when they see animals (especially lion, elephant, rhino, leopard and cheetah). Most importantly: You are allowed to drive in the national park before sunrise and after sunset. It is strictly forbidden when you drive yourself. It increases the chance of seeing nocturnal animals or predators hunting. Tour operators registered in Namibia are also allowed to drive in Western Etosha, the more deserted part of the park, which is closed to regular visitors. Of course, you can also combine both experiences. There’s nothing to stop you from driving yourself one day and joining a guided tour the next. Don’t forget to book a night safari so you can experience the park at three different times.
Recommendations for self-driving in Etosha
Etosha National Park is ideal for self-driving. With the exception of a couple of roads at the entrance gates, there are gravel roads in Etosha National Park. Most are easy to drive on, but there are some places where the roads almost consist of ruts, which means that driving takes longer – and is far more bumpy. During the rainy season, the roads can be muddy and some roads may be closed.
What kind of car will you be driving?
It’s not necessary to have a 4×4 towbar as it’s strictly forbidden to drive off-road. But it’s definitely recommended as you get a more comfortable ride and a better view (you sit higher up than in a normal car).
No stress
You’re on safari to look for animals and enjoy the scenery. So there’s no need to rush off. The speed limit is 60 km/h, which is possible on many of the roads. Safari is not about getting there fast. If you drive too fast, you can easily miss the animals. Take it easy and drive at a comfortable pace (40 km/h or lower). Then it’s much easier to see the animals – which is why you’re here in the first place!
Large distances
Etosha National Park is large (22,000 square kilometers) so make sure you don’t drive too far. It’s no fun having to rush back – imagine missing out on some amazing wildlife experiences because you’re too far away from your accommodation or gate.
You must be back in the camp or out of the gate when the park closes (sunset).
Fuel
Remember to keep track of the amount of fuel.
In Etosha it is only possible to refuel in three places: Okaukuejo, Namutoni and Halaliand.
It happens that these places are empty of fuel.
Remember to never run the tank completely empty and refill when you can.
Changing tires
Namibia’s roads are notorious for punctures, so be sure to check that the spare tire is in place when you pick up your rental car.
It’s also important that you know how to change your tires.
In Etosha National Park, it is strictly forbidden to get out of the car. If you are unfortunate enough to get a flat tire, you must therefore get to a fenced-in stop.
Where to stay in Etosha National Park
There are five resorts and one campsite in Etosha, all operated by Namibian Wildlife Resorts.
Camps Okaukuejo, Namutoni and Halali are located in the southern part and offer accommodation in rooms or chalets.
They are fairly simple camps, offering a restaurant, bar and gas station.
Each camp has a floodlit waterhole, of which Okaukuejo is the best.
