Kilkenny is rich in charm, relaxed atmosphere, narrow streets, lively pubs, history, art and cathedrals. This is one of Ireland’s most beautiful medieval towns, with grand old buildings and a great location on the River Nore. Kilkenny’s exciting history stretches back to the 6th century, being invaded by the Normans in the 17th century and granted city status in 1609 by King James I of England. It’s known as The Marble City thanks to its centuries-long production of black marble. Kilkenny is easy to get around and you can experience the city’s attractions on foot.
Here are 5 things you must experience in Kilkenny:
1. Kilkenny Castle
The castle is mighty impressive and has a dramatic history. The castle was built by the Normans in the 12th century to control traffic across the River Nore. In 1391, it was bought by the wealthy Butler family, who moved from Ireland after independence in 1921. The family was broke and most of their possessions were sold at auction, and the castle fell into disrepair. Wallpaper rotted, floors collapsed and ceilings collapsed. The city council bought Kilkenny Castle in 1967 for a token sum of £50 and began a restoration, based on old photographs. Furniture and paintings were tracked down and bought back or donated. Behind its massive walls and towers, Kilkenny Castle is dressed in Victorian elegance. The staircases are in dark brown mahogany, the chairs have silk upholstery and the lounge is adorned with golden wallpaper from Lyon. In the 50-metre-long Long Room, portraits of the Butler family hang, immortalized in oil paints.
2. Smithwick’s Experience Kilkenny
The city of Kilkenny has a long brewing history and Smithwick’s story began long before the Smithwick family set foot in Kilkenny. In the 14th century, some monks established St. Francis Abbey, which grew in size over the next 300 years. Henry VIII and the arrival of the Reformation in 1537 ensured that the monks had to close their doors. In the early 1700s, John Smithwick arrived in Kilkenny and in 1710 he bought the site of the old abbey. Together with his partner Richard Cole, beer was once again brewed in Kilkenny. However, the name Smithwick did not appear on the sign until 1837 when Edmond Smithwick took over. Beer production increased from 5,000 barrels to 40,000 barrels in 1860. The brewery was passed down through the generations until 2014 when drinks giant Diageo decided to move production to Dublin. The old brewery has been transformed into a visitor center where you can follow the history of local brewing from the Middle Ages to the present day. Expert guides take you through the building and explain the process. The visit ends with a tasting session.
3. Kyteler’s Inn
This delightful pub is essentially the same as it was in 1324 when Alice Kyteler ran it. Dame Alice Le Kyteler was born in Kilkenny in 1263, the daughter of a banker. She had quite a reputation, not least because she had four husbands and a considerable fortune. Three of her husbands died in gruesome and mysterious circumstances, which later turned out to be poisoning. In 1324, her enemies agreed to accuse her of witchcraft, heresy and murder and have her burned at the stake. Luckily for Alice, she had friends in the upper circles who helped her escape to England. Alice then disappeared from history. Her maid Petronella was not so lucky. She was convicted and whipped as she walked down the street to the stake, where she was burned. Today, it is generally agreed that the accusations against Alice (and Petronella) were false. What is certain is that Kyteler’s Inn was a place “of merrymaking and good cheer”.
It still is. At Kyteler’s Inn and the pub is wonderfully charming. Here you can relax with good food and a large selection of drinks. In the evenings there are often bands on stage. The pub oozes history, which is immortalized in the walls and under the wheel-shaped chandeliers. The room in the basement is said to be haunted and you’re bound to be joined by a ghost while enjoying an Irish coffee… Don’t forget to try the local specialty, named The Witches Brew (of course). A visit to Kyteler’s Inn is a must when you’re in Kilkenny. The pub was already old when Christopher Columbus discovered America!
4. St. Canice’s Cathedral
Large Gothic arches. Light shining through the mosaics onto gray sarcophagi where Kilkenny’s great men are laid to rest. Ireland’s second largest medieval church was built between 1202 and 1285. The tower collapsed as early as 1332. One of the town’s finest ladies, Alice Kyteler and her nephew William, were convicted of casting evil eyes on the tower. Alice fled to England, but William escaped with his life because he promised to put a new lead roof on the church. The town’s leaders accepted, but the roof became too heavy and collapsed. In 1650, Cromwell and his soldiers used the church as a stable – as part of the punitive expedition against Irish Catholics. When they left, the restoration of the church began. The baptismal font and chair of St. Ciaran are in local black limestone and date to the 13th century. Outside, a 30 meter high tower rises. It dates from 847 and from here you get a great view of Kilkenny.
The 700-year-old book Journey through time and page (Leabhar Dearg Osraí) is on loan from the Representative Church Body Library. The book was written by the extraordinary Bishop of Ossory, Richard Ledrede. It tells the story of Kilkenny during the Middle Ages and gives an insight into the lives of its inhabitants. This unique book consists of 79 pages of vellum (prepared animal skins from lamb and cow).
5. Medival Mile Museum
The museum breathes life into Kilkenny’s medieval past and is housed in the 13th century St. Mary’s Church. Opened in 2018, knowledgeable guides share the stories of those who lived here 700-800 years ago. Visitors can follow the ancient streets on an interactive map, lie in a stone coffin and study finds from archaeological excavations. Children can dress up in armor and go on a treasure hunt. You can also join a guide on the streets and explore Kilkenny on foot. Along the way, you’ll hear interesting stories about the city as it once was and discover hidden gems in this charming city.
